Collaboration is Power

Visionary designer Natacha Ramsay-Levi teams up with ECCO to create footwear with natural motion for AW23.

How did you first come to be involved with ECCO?

I participated in the At.Kollektive project first, so this is how I started with ECCO. Through At.Kollektive, I knew the factory, knew the manufacturers, the raw tools, but it was also a lot about meeting Panos [Mytaros, CEO] who I enjoyed working with so much; he’s very inspired all the time, very creative. And there’s a feeling of equality within ECCO I admire. So it came together in a very organic way.

What appealed to you about working with them?

It wasn’t the type of company I’d been working with until now. But I did the tour of the company museum and was amazed, amazed by the innovation, responsibility, awareness – the fact that they really know what they are doing. This was exactly the kind of environment I was searching for and wanted to work with. Because they have this trust and awareness and knowledge, they can take risks. I remember Panos saying ‘there is nothing to risk!’. Basically, just try things! If they liked it, they’d take it; if they didn’t, they wouldn’t. There’s something very honest about that.

Why did you want to work with them again?

The whole company is very impressive. There is something very special, super authentic, super true about ECCO. It’s honest and direct. In a way it’s fun because it’s not totally a fashion company, but it’s very accurate in terms of lifestyle. I’m very impressed by the way everything is done, the sustainability, the management of people, innovations – technical innovations but also the way they constantly search for new designers, new collaborations, young people. It’s proof of how open and how modern I feel ECCO is and how authentic. It’s here, it’s present, it’s real.

What are the most surprising things you’ve learned about ECCO through working with them?

It was a brand I didn’t really know, so everything has been surprising to me. It is such a big brand, but there is a quietness to it that I love, which I think comes from confidence. They know who they are, what they do, and control how they do it. It’s not the usual behaviour in this industry.

What do you think you bring to the brand?

It’s not about my signature in ECCO or whatever, it’s about doing good for ECCO. I do things that I think I will like, things I maybe felt were missing, but for me the most important thing is that it reaches an audience within ECCO. It’s not creative direction, it’s a collaboration. I’m happy to help and be part of the team! They have knowledge, they know what they’re doing. They don’t need people to tell them what to do. What they are willing to have is a new point of view.

“To me shoes are one of the most versatile elements of a woman’s wardrobe. I’ve always, always loved shoes.”

Natacha Ramsay-Levi

What was your starting point for your first collection?

The first idea was to work within a frame of what already existed. What we didn’t want was to have a designer coming in and changing everything. It’s the opposite of what we wanted to do. So to me it was important to be able to work with what’s available. It’s about highlighting what already exists with another point of view.

What was the design process like?

Working with Niki Taestensen [ECCO design director] has made it very easy. I felt very comfortable to propose stuff. We are in a bubble. He is a doer! Niki helped me a lot to focus. Knowing all the techniques at ECCO, for me the fun part from my perspective was to work with the sportier, more technical stuff, like the Biom soles. It’s amazing.

Where did the idea for the poppy colours come from?

The tannery at ECCO is amazing and can do very bright colours with this incredible soft leather. I always get attracted by that. With my last At.Kollektive collection I did a lot of neon colours. The influence of sport and technicality is always important to me, but now even more. It’s about bringing together the sporty and the city. So these shades came from this world of colours which is usually seen on polyester or jersey – technical fabrics – but can now apply to very ecological leather.

Which were the most technically demanding styles to get right?

The biggest difficulty with shoes is to make everything happen together but 90% of the work was done. What we did was customising. The way we put the leather-rubber up the sides looks really clean – which is challenging to get right.

How would you describe your personal style?

I wish I had a uniform but it’s the absolute opposite of that. I’m a challenging person, that’s my reality! To me shoes are one of the most versatile elements of a woman’s wardrobe. I’ve always, always loved shoes. To me, sometimes, when I get dressed, I start with the shoe and figure the rest out. It’s about how you feel, how you hold yourself.

Do you still get excited seeing your designs in the wild?

Yes, a lot! I still see a lot of Chloé I did. It’s really fun. One of my friends just got her At.Kollektive season two order and keeps sending me pictures!

The new ECCO campaign celebrates Modern Family. What does that notion mean to you?

First of all, it totally resonates with sincerity. It’s mega sincere. The reality is, when you talk with Panos or whoever, they know everyone – which driver is picking you up, which designer is working on what.

To me, modern family… It’s your friends. It’s the community you work with. I think we all have many families. Personally, I have different chosen families. I would not choose between my personal family and my friendship family and my work family; I think you need the balance of them all. They are windows on the world for us, places of trust and confidence.

What are you proudest of in the collection?

That ECCO are proud of it. I came because I believed we could do something together.

Can you give us any clues about what to expect next from your ECCO collection?

We did this one pretty quick – in six months. We are currently finalising the next one, which will roll out from February 2024. What I will tell you is in the next one we have tons! It’s growing and growing and growing. And, because it’s summer, there will be sandals. From there we’ll start looking more long-term so will start to make some new soles and stuff.